Women of the JEwelry World: Suzanne Belperron
Uncover the remarkable journey of Suzanne Belperron, the trailblazing jewelry designer who defied norms to become a legend in Paris’s glittering world of high jewelry, and how her legacy inspires us to look at our own collections with a new lens of possibility.
Breaking Barriers
The Suzanne Belperron Story
Navigating the path less traveled, especially as an outsider facing gender, race, social class, or other barriers, is a formidable challenge. Yet, history is adorned with tales of remarkable individuals who not only embarked on this journey but also triumphed. Continuing our exploration of pioneering female jewelry designers, we spotlight Suzanne Belperron.
Amidst the male-dominated jewelry scene of 20th-century Paris, Belperron carved a name for herself, achieving a fame so grand that she was knighted by the French state, standing shoulder to shoulder with icons like Chanel and Schiaparelli in the realm of French design.
A Formative Journey
The Roots of an Icon
Born in 1900 in Saint-Claude, France, Suzanne Vuillerme, who the world would come to know as Suzanne Belperron, was nurtured in Besançon.
This city, known for housing France’s first public museum and the cradle of the national watch industry, served as Belperron’s early canvas, rich in artistic and horological heritage.
Graduating from Besançon’s École des Beaux-Arts at 18, she swiftly transitioned to Paris, aligning with Boivin, a renowned jewelry house celebrated for its inventive and exquisite creations. Here, Belperron began to etch her mark, emerging as a trailblazer among the few female designers in Paris’s elite jewelry circles.
The Emblem of Independence
Charting Her Own Course
Belperron’s journey was marked by an unwavering commitment to her unique style and independence. In 1932, when offered a secure position to design under Bernard Herz’s name, Belperron chose autonomy, famously declaring, “My style is my signature.” This bold refusal to compromise her identity for security underscored her philosophy and determination. Her designs, characterized by their distinctiveness and elegance, soon graced the cover of Vogue Paris. Defying expectations, Belperron later acquired B. Herz, rebranding it as “Suzanne Belperron, S.A.R.L.,” a testament to her resilience and vision.
Legacy of a Design Maverick
Suzanne Belperron’s legacy as a pioneering feminista jewelry designer endures, her story a beacon for aspiring designers navigating the complexities of creativity and identity. Dive deeper into her remarkable journey in “Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron,” published by Thames & Hudson, and discover the enduring allure of her designs that transcended the boundaries of her time.
If you’re interested in learning more about designers like Suzanne Belperron, feel free to read our blog feature “The Trailblazing Women of the Jewelry World.”
Originally Published July 22, 2020, Updated and Expanded March 1, 2024
Resources:
- ¹Suzanne Belperron Information and Photo: https://eliskadesign.com/
- ²Suzanne Belperron via The New York Times: https://www.nytimes.com/
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