House of the Dragon – The Significance of Jewelry of the Seven Kingdoms

Jewelry Significance in House of the Dragon

HBO’s “House of the Dragon” is more than just a tale of power, betrayal, and dragons; it’s a visual feast where every costume and piece of jewelry holds significant meaning. The intricate designs serve as extensions of the characters, personas, reflecting their status, emotions, and narrative arcs, according to the show’s award-winning costume designer, Jany Temime.

Let’s delve into the rich symbolism of the jewelry in the Seven Kingdoms and uncover the deeper meaning behind these ornate pieces. Before we continue, we’d just like to note a disclaimer that many of these theories and symbolisms were made from personal interpretations and connections from the live adaptation.

Common Symbols Throughout the Show

To start with the most obvious, jewelry is only worn by the higher class, not the Small Folk who do not have the means nor care for such luxuries. However, you can see the transition of power when Mysaria starts to rise in Flea Bottom and begins to wear jewelry. The pieces she wears are made of silver, which differs from the high-born houses who mostly wear gold. Temime stated that since Mysaria is neither from Westeros nor royal, she wanted to show that her character is different and knows how to stand out.

Similar to Mysaria, those spearheading the campaigns of the two opposing houses in the series wear jewelry respective to their differences from one another.

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The Crowns Worn by the Rulers of Westeros

Crowns in “House of the Dragon” are more than regal headpieces; they are potent symbols of authority and legacy. The importance of legacy is quite a major theme that drives all the characters in the game for the throne. The symbolic legacy of the crowns worn during these first two seasons is subtle, yet a powerful statement that can be missed.

Queen Rhaenyra and King Aegon II’s Crowns

Aegon II’s crown is a direct link to the past, being Aegon I’s crown, which was passed down to Maegor the Cruel. It is known in the history of the A Song of Ice and Fire world that Maegor Targaryen earned his place as the cruelest of Westeros’s kings, hence the kingly title that he is associated with. Along with the crown, Aegon was handed Blackfyre, the Valyrian steel sword that was also passed down to Maegor from Aegon I. This crown and sword being given to Aegon II when he was named king was meant to legitimize him in the eyes of the public as these possessions once belonged to the Aegon I. However, this symbolizes a return to a more tumultuous and violent rule, echoing the legacy of its other previous wearer.

In contrast, Queen Rhaenyra’s crown, originally belonging to her late father Viserys, was actually crafted by King Jaehaerys I. Maegor was so hated from the cruel methods during his reign, that his successor King Jaehaerys I had a completely new crown made. This crown represents a break from the cruelty of the past, symbolizing a new era of peace and stability. The differences between the crowns highlight the divergent paths and philosophies of the two claimants.

On the other hand, Daemon’s self-made crown, possibly constructed from the bones during the war with the Crabfeeder, signifies his self-proclaimed kingship and his rugged, rebellious nature. Although Viserys and his council were worried about this self-made crown, it only had served as a vessel to prove his worth to his brother. When Viserys initially welcomes Daemon with open arms after thanking him for dealing with this war, Daemon gives up the crown as he does get the appreciation and approval that he so longed for.

Each crown in the series is a narrative device, speaking volumes about the characters and their claims to power.

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Brooches and Pins of Family, Rank, and Status

The Hand of the King Adornments

Subtly, other characters wear smaller advisor brooches, like Rhaenyra’s heir, Jacaerys, which resembles a mini version of the Hand of the King pin. The real Hand of the King pin is a hand holding a much bigger knife, but the pin Jace wears seems to represent a smaller knife, indicating the importance of his advisory role on Rhaenyra’s council and proximity to power. Baela is also seen wearing a similar pin when speaking  on Rhaenyra’s small council.

Criston Cole, as the Lord Commander of the White Cloaks, brings a unique twist to the Hand of the King adornment. Unlike traditional Hands who wear the pin with their robes or tunics, Criston Cole integrates his Hand of the King jewelry piece into his armor. His status symbol is more conspicuous, taking the form of a chain necklace that stands out against his armor. This deliberate display compensates for his lack of experience in the role.

The ostentatious chain serves as a visual reminder of his authority and a declaration of his elevated position, making up for any perceived deficiencies in his political or administrative expertise. The integration of his Hand of the King status into his knightly attire highlights the blending of martial prowess with political responsibility, underscoring the multifaceted roles characters play in the complex tapestry of the Seven Kingdoms.

The Subtle Firefly Sigil of Larys Strong

Larys Strong’s personal firefly sigil is laden with dark symbolism. In the Victorian era, fireflies were considered omens of death; their presence foretold someone’s demise. This is fitting for Larys, whose seemingly benign appearance masks a deadly cunning. Fireflies, known for their distracting beauty, mirror Larys’s deceptive nature and his manipulative use of his disability to become the Master of Whisperers. His propensity for setting fires to eliminate threats, like Harwin and Lyonel Strong in Harrenhal, and Mysaria in her own quarters, aligns with the firefly’s deadly connotations.

Larys’s firefly sigil can be seen on his cane, servicing as a constant, subtle reminder of his true nature and intentions for power. Additionally, this sigil is worn on pins of his secret employees when they are out doing the job, signaling their allegiance to him. These small, yet significant, adornments create an undercurrent fear and loyalty, reinforcing Larys’s control and the reach of his influence. The firefly sigil thus acts as a chilling emblem of death and deception, perfectly encapsulating the sinister role Larys plays in the shadows.

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The Jewelry of the Blacks and the Greens

Each house, Team Black and Team Green, showcases distinct themes in their jewelry that reflect their core values and religious affiliations. House Black resonates with the values from the world of Old Valyria and the Old Gods, often featuring motifs of dragons and ancient symbols. In contrast, House Green aligns more with Westerosi traditions and the New Gods, incorporating religious iconography and elements that underscore their piety and political ambitions. These carefully crafted pieces offer deeper insights into the characters and the turbulent times they navigate, making the jewelry an essential element of the storytelling.

Jewelry Worn by Team Black and Rhaenyra Targaryen

Dragon-Themed Jewelry of House Black

Team Black, led by Queen Rhaenyra Targaryen, prominently features dragon-themed jewelry. These pieces symbolize their Targaryen heritage and their relation to the blood of the dragon, being of fire and blood. The fierce and majestic imagery of dragons on their jewelry underscored their strength, determination, and connection to the ancient power of Old Valyria.

These designs integrating dragons into jewelry is featured on many different pieces including rings, necklaces, belts, and even armor. For example, Daemon’s pinky ring, designed with an infinity symbol and a silver bead, may be representing his lifetime longing for power around the throne. His other ring bears the sigil of House Targaryen with the three-headed dragon, therefore, reinforcing his allegiance and ambition. Rhaenyra also wears a gold decorative belt with two dragons blowing fire towards each other, representing the conflict between House Black and House Green.

When Rhaenyra is first named heir to the Iron Throne, she wears jewelry that are radically different from the subtle jewelry she wears when her character is introduced. During this celebration, she wears an iconic pair of earrings with three tiny pearls clustered above a gold disc, a pearl set in the center of the disc, and a pear-shaped pearl dangling below. This change to ornate jewelry represents her new status and power.

The Storytelling Importance of Rhaenyra’s Necklaces

Rhaenyra’s necklaces are significant storytelling devices, reflecting her evolving identity and emotional state. Early in the series, Daemon gifts Rhaenyra a Valyrian steel necklace with the symbol of Old Valyria, representing her heritage and strength. The symbol of this necklace also appears in the opening credits to represent Rhaenyra, emphasizing its importance to her character.

In a later episode, Rhaenyra’s necklace symbolizes her freedom and agency, while she faces choices representing obligation and duty. After a much-needed conversation with her father, King Viserys, addressing the rumors of her scandal with Daemon in Flea Bottom, she begins to take her duties more seriously. After this wake-up call, she stops wearing Daemon’s necklace, symbolizing a shift in her priorities.

Rhaenyra’s jewelry continues to evolve, with a necklace resembling a dragon head with three gemstone charms representing her lineage and connection to her ancestors, Aegon, Rhaenys, and Visenya. Another significant piece is her necklace with a chain representing dragon teeth and a gemstone that symbolizes a drop of blood, a nod to Maelys’s tragic end.

As the story continues, Rhaenyra’s necklace with the dragon head and red gemstone undergoes a subtle design change, with metal spikes being added to the chain like barbed wire around her neck, symbolizing the increasing pressure and danger from the Greens. This necklace eventually evolves into the one she wears towards the end of the season, where she is gaining the upper hand. When Rhaenyra stands outside with Syrax, Vermithor, and Silverwing to face Aemond, she’s seen wearing a necklace with a larger red gemstone with dragon teeth metalwork, showcasing her status and power. The design of the gemstone pendant also matches the chain worn by her dragon, Syrax, a subtle nod to her strengthening relationship with the power of the dragons.

Jewelry Worn by Team Green and Alicent Hightower

The Religious-Themed Jewelry of House Green

Team Green, centered around Alicent Hightower in this adaptation, features jewelry with significant religious and political symbolism. To provide some backstory, the Hightowers were the first family house to accept the New Gods and the new religion that came with them, which was the Faith of the Seven. In contrast to the dragon-themed jewelry of Team Black, the Hightowers were seen wearing the seven-pointed star, the symbol of their religion. The use of decorating their House and literal home in lavish seven-pointed star adornments is not only a symbolism of their faith, but a strategy to show that their family may seem more pious and therefore the better option over Rhaenyra’s claim.

Beginning with Otto Hightower, the accessories of this character show the influence of his hometown, Old Town. This town is featured in the Game of Thrones series, where the Tower of the Citadel is shown with the training maesters. Throughout the House of the Dragon series, Otto wears chains around his neck that are highly influenced by the design of a maester’s chain. Many characters, like Otto, also wear their house sigil proudly on a pin or brooch, representing their core beliefs and values, thus being the embodiment of wearing their hearts on their sleeves. These accessories showcase the influence that religion had on the Hightowers and how houses in different regions presented themselves to the rest of the world.

The Storytelling Importance of Alicent’s Adornments

Alicent’s jewelry evolves with her character and her grasp on power. Initially, Alicent wears dainty jewelry with her blue clothing, presenting an innocent appearance as a child. As she gains power, her jewelry becomes more mature and prominent, reflecting her growing authority. She begins to wear the House Targaryen colors of red and black, leaving behind her innocent blue appearance when she marries Viserys, and eventually dons more House of the Seven religious jewelry along with her House Hightower color of green.

As Alicent’s role becomes more prominent as Queen Regent when Viserys falls too ill to rule, she started to wear a large seven-pointed star necklace, aligning with her household’s values. Her religious jewelry symbolizes her attempt to legitimize her power and the Greens’ rule through faith.

Throughout her journey, Alicent’s seven-pointed star necklaces becomes a symbol of her guilt from the sins she commits. This also comes with her need to reaffirm her faith, highlighting her inner turmoil of committing the sins she has done that she once resented Rhaenyra for. The more acts of hypocrisy that is committed is represented when she introduces new seven-pointed star accessories, including a belt and earrings, to compensate for her guilt and reinforce her external piety.

By the end of a particularly challenging episode, she wears simpler, less ornate jewelry, signaling a possible turning away from her staunch religious adherence. However, it is seen she goes back to wearing her religious adornments whenever she needs to build the strength within herself. (This back-and-forth pattern with guilt can also be seen with Criston Cole and his acts of hypocrisy, where he no longer wore the seven-pointed star on his armor after the battle at Rook’s Rest).

The Use of Gemstones by Team Black and Green

Gemstones in “House of the Dragon” carry significant symbolic weight, indicating attributes such as power, lineage, and mystical significance.

Team Black is often seen wearing red gemstones, which symbolize their Targaryen heritage house colors, and the blood of Old Valyria. For example, Rhaenyra was decorated in red gemstones in her necklaces and even in her hair throughout the series. Baela’s jewelry also often featured similar designs resembling dragons and drops of blood. The use of red gemstones reinforced their fierce house lineage and connection to the dragons.

In contrast, Team Green seems to favor green gemstones, aligning with their House Hightower colors and their allegiance to the New Gods. In one scene, Aegon I’s chain necklace, adorned with green gemstones, highlights this preference, symbolizing their power and ambition.

The Symbolism of Aemond’s Sapphire Eye

Although there may not be much lore to why Aemond chose a sapphire gemstone in place of his taken eye, there are some great theories to his decision. Aemond’s sapphire, that was initially revealed to be in place of his missing eye when he faces Lucerys, can be seen as a powerful symbol of his connection to his ancestors and his transformation into a fearsome warrior. This gemstone serves as a striking visual reminder of his resilience and the personal values he carries. The choice of a sapphire can also been seen to homage to the legendary figure Symeon Star-Eyes from the Age of Heroes.

Symeon Star-Eyes is a mythical character who, according to tales, was blind but replaced his lost eyes with star sapphires. He was renowned for his extraordinary combat skills, wielding a long staff with blades at both ends, which he would spin to cut down multiple foes simultaneously.

By choosing a sapphire replacement for his eye, Aemond aligns himself with the enduring qualities of Symeon Star-Eyes, embodying both the mystical and martial prowess that defined the legendary knight. This connection not only subtly enhances Aemond’s character depth but also ties him to the rich tapestry of Westerosi lore, reinforcing his formidable presence in “House of the Dragon.”

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Wearing the Jewelry of “House of the Dragon”

Fans of “House of the Dragon” can now immerse themselves further into the series by wearing licensed replicas of the jewelry worn by their favorite characters. Jessica de Lotz, in collaboration with costume designer Jany Temime, has created an official collection of wax seal pieces bearing the Targaryen and Velaryon crests. These intricate, highly detailed replicas include pieces inspired by King Viserys Targaryen, Daemon Targaryen, Ser Otto Hightower, and Corlys Velaryon.

Each piece in the collection reflects the careful craftsmanship and historical inspiration that define the series. Whether it’s the dragon-themed jewelry of Team Black or the religiously symbolic pieces worn by Team Green, these replicas allow fans to embody the power, heritage, and stories of the Seven Kingdoms. Jessica de Lotz’s collection enables fans to wear a part of the “House of the Dragon” legacy, celebrating the intricate interplay of power, heritage, and personal evolution depicted in the show.

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